1-4. I began by building the base of the saucer hull in perspex ("Plexiglass"). This entailed machining several layers varying in thickness from 3mm to 9mm and laying them up in a kind of "sandwich" to create the multi-level appearance of the underside of the saucer hull. Additional detailing was applied to this using EMA plastic half-round strips of varying thickness, and plastikard panelling. I also recessed, where necessary, the window sections which are set into wedge-shaped recesses in the underside of this part of the model.

5-10 I decided right from the start that, with the exception of the underside of the saucer hull, that I would carve the rest of the model in Jelutong wood. I would then add ALL the cladding and detailing and take the model right to the final paint stage before taking moulds from the final finished sections. This was partly to lighten the model ,as by then it would be very heavy and also to give me a thin fibreglass shell the windows could then be cut into.

 Photos 5-10 show the secondary hull in various stages of carving. The front intake where the Sensor Array fits was a real swine to carve, and I ended up making a "female" mould of this section in plastic tube and pushing this into a load of P38 car body filler, allowing it to dry and then carving the model down until I got the desired shape, shown clearly in photo 10. I carved the secondary hull to fit into the slot in the underside of the saucer hull which I'd already made. This can also be clearly seen in photo 26 (page 3).

11-12 These photos show the saucer hull being carved in Jelutong wood. At this stage I also glued and screwed the "perspex" underside to the top of the saucer hull. To carve this I found I had to screw blocks of wood to the saucer in order that I could hold it securely it in the vice while I carved it.